It is time to commence my yarn, however, so that you may know what we have been about for the last three months. Leaving Otaheite, we steered Westerly until we made Manua, the Easternmost of the Navigator Group. Two or three days were occupied in surveying it, but as there were no Harbours on the Island we did not anchor. I was one of the party who were allowed to land. We were reminded of Tahita: the scenery we thought was even more enchanting; we were in raptures at the wonderful loveliness of the shores.

There were no white missionaries on the Island, but the natives have embraced the Christian faith and are instructed by converts from Otaheite. We thought them of a much graver cast of character than the lively Tahitians and we did not witness among them any of the licenciousness which is such a characteristic of the latter people. The village was beautifully situated under shelter of groves of Bread fruit, cocoa nut and forest trees. I envied the people their quiet Home by the Sea Shore and 1 almost was tempted to live with them forever; 8 or 10 white men we found domesticated among them, care seemed to [be] banished from them entirely.

One day's sail carried us from Manua to Tutuila, one of the same group. We anchored in a fine harbour, shut in from the sea; the observatory was erected and we were to make a stay of 10 days.

I was happy to be selected for a surveying expedition around the Island, to be performed in the Boats. Any thing to get clear of the irksome constraints of Ship board gives me positive delight, and then I knew I would mingle more with the people and see more of the Island than if I remained on board. So despite the comfortless condition of a Whale boat and the chances for accidents, the hard work, the sun and the rain, I was glad to have the duty assigned me. Two boats were to go, Lt. Underwood having the charge of the party, he being in the larger boat. We were 6 days in making the circumnavigation, run some narrow chances for our lives and suffered bodily ills in many and various shapes; but on the whole we enjoyed the interest and zest which attends novelty and adventure to a great degree and we were satisfied. One cannot see the world and be all the while in his easy chair by the fire. A white man who had lived on the Island eleven years accompanied us as interpreter.'

We slept on shore every night, always putting into a village before sundown and were received by the people with great kindness and hospitality. Life among them was so free-they made Gods of us almost, we were so wealthy in their eyes - that really I took a strange and strong fancy for them and I became almost as rude and primitive in my habits as the naked beings we were among. We carried no money with us; unlike the Tahitians, these people were utterly ignorant of the colour and value of coin. Fishhooks were most valuable in their eyes-that is, of trifling articles. Hatchets were the diamonds of the Samoans; knives, scissors, needles, cotton cloth. etc. etc. were treasures to them, more than all the gold of the Indies. We carried a trading Stock with us to purchase provisions, make presents etc. etc. and it was consoling to me to know that my personal effects alone would constitute me a wealthy man in this portion of the world. I could have outvied in possessions the most influential chiefs in the Islands. At Home, how the scale would sink; with no other dependence than this, I should be in jail in a month.

So you perceive there is a vast difference in the estimation of riches between the Samoa people and their white brethren. When I become reduced in the world's gear, I shall wend my way to the Samma [Samoa] Islands in the Pacific and live and die a rich chief.

Our Religion has been but lately introduced among this people; they have embraced it with much ardour and observe all its forms and precepts with the most scrupulous attention. Old and young attend the schools daily, and morning and evening you hear voices in prayer and the song of hymns ascending from every Hut. You cannot witness the least deviation from the strict code of morality and if you take the evidence of your senses you must believe you are among the very best people on the Earth. Weaned from their Heathenism they cling with fervour to the novel belief opened unto them. The savage and bloodthirsty traits of their original disposition have melted away; from Lions and serpents, they have become meek and humble as the Lamb or the Dove. As a people, you may almost say they are without guile, for their sole aim is to obey the commandments of God.

It is terrible to think that this good will not last long without its share of evil. The missionaries who have commenced this work already see that dissensions must ensue; they themselves have introduced the difference of Sects and neither party will give way. The natives cannot understand this; it passes their simple comprehension, yet none of them either will yield or alter the forms they have been taught; each sect abides by the tenets of its Master. It is hardly to be supposed that in the end they will be more merciful to each other's creed than Queen Mary was to the Martyrs and there will be war and butchery for opinion's sake, as of old.

Nevertheless, the Soil was good to work upon, but the misfortune is and has been that the labourers employed have not been the right kind of men-uneducated, bigoted to their particular church, narrow minded and selfish in their judgement of their fellow creatures as the most of them are in my opinion. With the good they have actually done they have mingled much of harm: allow them to have been influenced by the purest motives, grant them the sacrifice of leaving their country and their friends, yet their policy towards the people they came to convert must be condemned and deplored. The observer can easily see that, had the missionaries really been (in the language of their beautiful hymn) those "whose souls are lighted with wisdom from on high," their efforts would have been better directed and have produced happier effects. They lack wisdom and they lack charity, the charity of their Master, who is the saviour of men.

However, I cannot discuss this in a letter; you must wait until I return for the graphic account of my adventures among the Islands. You will also have to trust to my Journal for really I have not time nor space to put them in a letter-and let me tell you, want of time is no idle excuse in this Squadron. The Government is having full use of every bodies' minutes, and amidst the whirl and change of scene and the continual duty, I can scarce find leisure to think of you and have to snatch the few chances that offer to put pen to paper. This is the 16th attempt I have made at this letter and this day is Saturday the 14th, two weeks since I commenced.

One day's sail from Tutuila carried us to Upola, where we anchored and remained more than a week. We had an interesting time at this place; it is the head quarters of the missionaries and is by far the most fertile and beautiful of the whole group. The Island is not so mountaninous as the others and there are large tracts of level land and rich valleys, while in the neighboring Isles all is mountain and forest, the only habitable sites being on the beach.

We formed for the people a code of laws for the government of their intercourse with white people, which was adopted in a solemn conclave of all the Chiefs and the officers of the Squadron. The group in the immense hut were worthy of contemplation and the interest of the scene was intense.

After this was disposed of, Captain Wilkes acquainted them of his determination to make war upon the Chief of an Island but a few miles distant, who is notorious for his murders of the whites, and requested that they would aid him in his attempt. A long discussion ensued in which the Chiefs acquitted themselves well, but becoming excited and as the proposition was unexpected, they required time for an answer.14 We met again and the result was that they would remain neutral, but they could not plunge into a war with their kindred because of one bad man who had injured our country men but never molested them. The Captain blustered and threatened rather too much and finding it was of no avail, the prospect of a war subsided in the offering of a reward for Kocatoona, alive or dead, to be delivered to any American ship. Previous to this a Secret Expedition under Command of Captain Hudson had been sent to the Island to capture him by stratagem, but failed.

I was on a surveying tour along the shores of this Island for a short distance and afterwards walked across it to survey a harbour on the opposite side; 8o miles tramp across mountains where the paths were steep, narrow and rough, raining most of the time, was rather trying to us, who have done but little in the pedestrian way save walking on smooth planks for more than a year. However, I stood it manfully and did not suffer so much as I expected. We had 4 natives with us to carry our burthens and one white man as a guide. I took my Gun with me (for I rejoice in the possession of a double barrel) and though I was sans spectacles, I managed to shoot Pigeons enough for several meals. This expedition shall have particular mention in my journal.

We became acquainted with the family of the Rev. Mr. Williams who has been among the Island for 30 years and at this time was residing near our anchorage. He preached on board the Vincennes and his son was appointed Consul for the United States. We saw a great deal of him and a few days before we sailed, he in company with several others left the Harbour in the Missionary Brig on a voyage to the New Hebrides to endeavour to introduce the Gospel among the People. We towed him out to Sea and we felt an interest in the Brig for we had met her at Tahita, at Eimeo, and at Tutuila; she followed in our wake as regularly as if she was one of the Squadron.

The day after we anchored here the Brig arrived also, but they had an awful tale to unfold; we could scarcely believe or realize the terrible story. We were all attending church on board the Vincennes and a minister from the Shore was addressing the same congregation that had listened to Mr. Williams but a few weeks before, when his associates came on board to tell us that he had been murdered and eaten by the Savages; and he who related it had barely escaped the same fate. It seems they landed on the Island of Erromango (one of the New H.) and were met by the natives with signs of peace; in a short time, however, Mr. Williams and a Mr. Harris were killed. The two others ran to the boat and just saved themselves. They had no arms for defence because they say the sacredness of their calling should be their only protection, and they seem to have a trust in the immediate interposition of Providence in their behalf-so much so, that they may almost be accused of fanaticism in such instances. A little more worldly knowledge and conduct would have saved the lives of two valuable men, as the Survivors now acknowledge themselves; yet they had many similar examples before them and heeded them not.

This intelligence was a shock to us. It will be a severe and heavy affliction to the families of the dead, who are yet in happy ignorance of the event.

Notwithstanding the superb and glorious Scenery of the Islands and the gentle nature of the people, we were right happy as the time drew near for us to leave them, with an English port in prospect. Our duty had been severe, we had lived upon Pigs for three months and however Pork may do as a rarity, I cannot recommend it as a continual diet in a sweltering clime, bah! 1 loathe the name of it. We could get nothing else on the Islands and a piece of Roast Beef to be enjoyed in Sydney was uppermost in our thoughts. The crews of the vessels suffered also from exposure and other causes, several officers were afflicted with brain fever and strokes of the Sun, and we all felt the necessity of getting into another temperature. I have been so fortunate as to outbrave it all without the least feeling of illness. I have not been ill a moment since we left the U.S.

As I have said, my face, hands and neck were burned to a respectable bronze. I happened to be bathing one morning in a pool with a number of natives; on observing the line of demarcation around my throat and wrists, they were highly delighted, satisfied they had found the cause of the difference in our colour. They said, and they traced with their fingers the portions on their own persons, "that so much of me was Samoa, the rest Papalange- (white man), "that if I went wholly naked, I would soon be altogether Samoa." To this I assented and they were flattered and happy. I wish you could have seen me: I rarely had any thing on save a pair of sailor's trowsers and a collared shirt open at the neck. Barefooted also, I adop[t]ed my habits to the climate and the people and I was a great favorite wherever we went!

My old white hat that met with so much abuse at Home has been the greatest friend to me during the Summer. I have worn it on all occasions, rain or shine, and it has always been a comfort and protection, more serviceable than one of straw or tarpaulin; and now after the severe usage it has received, 1 have had it ironed and it is decent enough for me to wear on Shore and I do wear it. I have quite an affection for it, both for the sake of old times and for the service it will yet do me. It will be grand next Summer on the N.W. Coastperhaps I may bring it Home and sport it again among the Hills.

Just picture me in such a rig, with a knife belted around my waist, amidst a crowd of natives. Now I am dressed with exquisite care, mingling with those who are of my own customs and language; the change is miraculous and sudden, the enjoyment it affords beggars description. We are transported from place to place, from Nation to Nation, with magical celerity. We are with the new before the old is out of our thoughts and time glides away imperceptibly. A roving commision in a man of war is preferable to the possession of Aladdin's ring; of his lamp, perhaps not.